Posted by Peg in South Carolina
I will be warping my handspun at 8 epi. For that sett I could use either a raddle with 1” spaces or a raddle with 1/2” spaces. Since I like to have as few ends in the raddle spaces as I can, I chose the raddle with 1/2” spaces.
The dummy warp is 10/2 pearl cotton so the spacing of the yarns looks pretty skimpy. When I get to the handspun, which is quite a bit fatter, the spaces will no longer look so skimpy.
The important thing this photo shows, however, is the reason why I don’t like to put on wide bouts. With two bouts, each bout is covering close to 14”. The result is that a very wide angle is created on the outside warps between the area where the bout is choke tied to the place it reaches on the raddle. Those outside ends cover more length than do the inside ends.
This difference in length from choke tie to raddle does not make for a good beamed warp. Ideally the warp ends should be travelling in as nearly a straight line as they can. Since this is such a short warp, I may just split each of the bouts in half after I have raddled the other group and before I beam it on.
I haven’t yet decided the size of the bouts for the hand spun. I was thinking 2” but 16 ends seems a bit absurd. I will probably try 4”. One nice thing about short warps is that you can get away with a slightly imperfectly beamed warp. With a long warp you can’t because what starts out as a practically invisible problem becomes greater and greater the longer you weave.