Posted by Peg in South Carolina
Chuck held warp ends taut and pressed treadles. I got the lease sticks in.
You can tell from the tautness and neatness of the threads, those that are still attached to the woven cloth. And it is clear that these are not tabby sheds. As I said, you cannot get tabby on this threading.
The messier side is where the warp ends had been disconnected at the fell and Chuck was holding them. Though I don’t have perfect tabbies, these sheds, combined with the raddle divisions, should give me a good enough way to make choices when I start threading.
My next step was to pull all those ends out of their heddles. When I did this, I discovered that there were some ends that had not been caught in the lease sticks at all. I was able to use my raddle (still sitting on the back beam) to determine where those ends were to be inserted into the lease sticks.
RE-THREADING MORE DIFFICULT THAN THREADING
So I have begun the threading. Not quite halfway through. It is harder going than when I did it originally. Normally when I thread, I remove the back beam and the cloth beam. Doing this allows me to get closer to the heddles. Since, however, the right half of the warp is still attached to the cloth beam, I had to leave both beams in place. This means some awkward leaning over to reach the heddles. Not easy on the back.
Sometimes I stand. Sometimes I sit. Neither way is perfect but at least it changes my body position.
When I inserted the lease sticks, I did not choose the best sheds. Not realizing it, I had chosen sheds that always left 3-4 warp ends next to each other either going under or going over the lease sticks. I am hoping that this will not create a problem when I start to weave. I worry about sheds not clearing properly. Only time will give me the answer to this one!
“Re-Threading” was written by Margaret Carpenter for Talking about Weaving and was originally posted on September 3, 2010. ©2010 Margaret Carpenter aka Peg in South Carolina