Posted by Peg in South Carolina
DYEING
As I should have been able to predict last Friday, I have decided to do one more set of dye sampling. I will use the green of the last sampling but for the red I will use Sabraset Scarlet. As this is a very busy day for me, however, the dyeing will happen tomorrow.
THREADING DRAFT
Also, I have saved another copy of the threading draft. But in this copy I have eliminated the gaps between groups of blocks. To do the actual threading, I will print out the original version with the gaps. But for the calculations, I needed to eliminate those gaps.
Eliminating the gaps gives me 1506 warp ends plus four more for doubled floating selvedges. That gives me a final total of 1510 warp ends.
ANTICIPATED PROBLEMS
1510 warp ends of 60/2 silk makes me catch my breath. That many ends in a complex threading leaves plenty of room for making errors. Also, that many ends provides for plenty of opportunity for stuck warp ends and so problematic sheds in the actual weaving.
I am hoping that leaving the gaps in the printed threading that I take with me to the loom for threading will help with the threading errors. And I am going to change the sett from my usual of 60 ends per inch to 54 ends per inch in the hopes that doing this will make for easier sheds. To help with the latter I also plan to use a temple.
Onward and upward!
Related Post: Done with Dye Sampling?
"Slow (Very Slow) Movement Forward” was written by Margaret Carpenter for Talking about Weaving and was originally posted on October 16, 2009. ©2009 Margaret Carpenter aka Peg in South Carolina.
2 comments:
Hi; you may not need it I think, but I formatted (then printed-out) a check-list (in M/s Word)to eliminate threading errors in a recent warp with over a thousand ends. It made a huge difference in that I had no errors, and I didn't feel the need to check and re-check.
Will you use sizing to prevent the likelihood of stuck warp ends? Would like to know your thoughts on this option.
Good luck with your project.
Kaylyn, I don't quite understand this check-list. How is it different from printing out the threading and checking off the groups as you thread them? No, I won't use sizing. Silk is plenty slick on its own. For me the cause is either an area which is not quite as tight as the rest or a shaft or two that won't go quite all the way down. I know how to avoid the first problem, but the second problem I am not so sure about.
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