Monday, March 24, 2008


I use my paddle as a stationary paddle. Some people prefer to carry the paddle as the wind on the warp. When I have tried to do that, I get into a complete muddle at the cross.

Here is my warping paddle close up and in use. Because of the angle, you can't see that it consists of alternating holes and slots, just like a rigid heddle.


Four threads are coming up from four cones. Each one goes through a hole or a slot. The ends in the slot can be moved either to the right or to the left. The threads in the holes are always stationary because they cannot move. And that is the secret of the warping paddle.

As the four warp ends emerge from the top of the paddle, I grab them with my hand and wind them up to the top of the warping board. I stop short of the crossing pegs.


Holding on to the four ends at the top of the board with my left hand, I reach down under the paddle with my right hand. I uses my right hand to grab the warp ends coming from underneath the paddle. I move those warp ends to my right. But only two warp ends move: those in the slots. The other two are stationary because they are in the holes.


There is now a space between the stationary warp ends and the moved warp ends. This space is not only underneath the paddle, it also appears above the paddle. I insert a finger of my left hand into the space between the yarns that appears above the paddle.


Next I move my right hand (still holding the four warp ends) underneath the paddle from my right to my left. This creates another space. The warps that are threaded through the slots now move the left. The space is visible between the top of the paddle and the warp ends threaded over one finger of my left hand. I put a second left-hand finger through this second space.

Now my two fingers are holding the cross. I put one section of the cross on one peg; I put the other section on the second peg.


I then take those four ends and go round the end peg. I make the cross with the paddle again, getting the cross on my two fingers. I put each section of the cross on a peg and then run the four ends back down to the beginning.


Peggy Osterkamp, Winding a Warp and Using a Paddle, pp. 67-84. She explains and illustrates how to use both a slot-and-hold paddle (both stationary and carry-around) and an all-holes paddle. If you've got this you don't need another book.......

but if you can't help yourself..........

Leslie Voiers, Workshop Notes for Winding Multi-Colored Warps with a Warping Paddle Using the Warping Board Frame or the Upright Warping Reel. Though Osterkamp has written (written very well) all you need to know about using the paddle, Voiers has included lots of tips that can be very useful. However, she does limit herself to carry-around paddles (both stationary and all-holes).

Related Post: Warping Work Station with Coffee


Leigh said...

Very interesting posts on this. Since I work mostly with mill ends or single buys of cones, I really don't have a need for a paddle. I can see though how they would be very helpful, false cross notwithstanding!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the details, Peg!

You are right, I am treating all the ends as one as I carry them around the cross pegs. It never occurred to me that you could do otherwise (just wasn't taught that way to me) so this is very enlightening. Most of the time my technique works just great, but there are certain situations where I would prefer a thread by thread cross and your technique would be most helpful. In the past, I have returned to winding with only one end in hand in these situations. Now I have a new technique to try to master which should ultimately speed up my process when working with these special warps!

Barbara (previously unintentionally posted as ANONYMOUS

Peg in South Carolina said...

Leigh, I have been known to wind a second cone from a single cone of purchased yarn. When I am winding for a piece at 60 epi, even just using 2 cones of yarns so shortens the time (and lessens shoulder and back issues) it takes to warp, that it is worth making the second cone.
Barbara, thanks for telling us who you are! This is not a difficult technique to master. The learning curve is really relatively short.

bspinner said...

I'm going to have to think about getting a paddle. I can now see how useful they can be. Thanks for sharing.